Authentic New England Dishes

The culinary landscape of New England is usually associated with tried-and- true classics: Maine lobster rolls, Vermont maple syrup and, of course, clam chowder. But nestled among these gustatory superstars is a host of hyperlocal dishes preserved by working-class and immigrant communities throughout the region.

From the unique steamed hamburgers of Meriden, CT, to the Rhode Island lunchroom staple, coffee milk, New England is full of delicious surprises for the adventurous and curious foodie. The next time you come to shore, treat your hungry crew to three dishes from eastern New England and savor the flavors of eating like a local.

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NORTH SHORE ROAST BEEF

Massachusetts’ North Shore covers the state’s coast between Boston and the New Hampshire border, including the historic seaports of Salem and Gloucester. A part of the state known for its rocky coastlines and early pioneers in American fishing and manufacturing, it developed a strong deli sandwich culture among its working class that persists to this day. North Shore residents are often fiercely loyal to their preferred luncheon, with heated debates breaking out over which local eatery provides the most authentic, affordable or delicious sandwich experience.

The North Shore roast beef — often affectionately referred to by locals as a “three-way” — is a deceptively simple sandwich. The star of the show is the juicy roast beef, accompanied by the “three-way” combination of American cheese, mayonnaise and barbecue sauce piled high between a bulkie roll.

The bulkie, similar to a hamburger bun but larger and firmer, likely originated from Eastern European Jewish immigrants and is a distinctive feature of the region’s delis and working-class restaurants. The other ingredients can vary — such as substituting American cheese for other varieties — but a true-to-form “three-way” will always be served warm, gooey and shockingly delicious.

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SOUTH SHORE BAR PIZZA

Moving south of Boston, we enter the South Shore of Massachusetts. Known by some as the “Irish Riviera,” it is home to six of the United States’ 10 most Irish towns and stretches from Quincy to Plymouth. Featuring lots of beaches, wildlife sanctuaries and historic lighthouses, the South Shore is in many ways a quieter alternative to Provincetown and other Cape Cod beach towns.

Within this distinct geographical region emerged a unique American pizza style known as South Shore bar pizza. Almost always served as small, personal-sized pizzas, the bar pizza is characterized by a crispy, thin crust heavily topped with sauce, cheese and other ingredients.

The bar pizza is always baked in a round, lipped steel pan — many shops using the same baking pans for decades — with cheese piled all the way to the edge of the pan. In the oven, the cheese and sauce flow down toward the bottom of the pan, transforming the crust into a chewy, savory mixture similar to Detroit-style pizza.

Toppings can range from the standard — pepperoni, sausage and so on — to the truly bizarre and not for the faint of heart. Seafood options, such as sardines, are common and often paired with bacon and other meats. Some bar pizza joints even offer a baked bean pizza (don’t knock it ‘till you try it!), making a culinary concoction so quintessentially Boston that you’ll never think of lobstah and chowdah again.

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PORTUGUESE MALASADAS

While most people associate New England with old British Puritans and waves of Irish and Italian immigration, the story of the region’s South Coast is often overlooked. Eastern Rhode Island and the southern counties of Massachusetts boast some of the largest Portuguese ancestry of anywhere in the United States, with almost half of the population of Fall River and New Bedford tracing their lineage back to Iberian roots.

The story begins in the 19th century. The whaling industry, originally operating out of the island of Nantucket, relocated to the deep water and railroad accessible port of New Bedford, MA. Portuguese seamen — especially those from the islands of the Azores, Madeira and Cabo Verde — had generations of experience developed out of their whaling traditions. Sensing opportunity, many immigrated to this part of New England, also bringing along their distinct culinary heritage that survive to this day.

In many parts of Rhode Island and Massachusetts today, you can find Portuguese butchers selling traditional meats like linguiça and chouriço, as well as many bakeries selling pastries and malasadas, a cross between fairground fried dough and a classic American doughnut. Tracing its roots back to the

Azorean island of São Miguel, malasadas were originally made in convents for carnival celebrations inaugurating the Lenten fast, but have long since entered the mainstream of Luso-American cuisine and are sold in stores and at Portuguese festivals throughout the year.

The basic malasada starts as a simple yeasted flour dough that is rolled or tossed in sugar before being fried. Other standard flavorings include lemon zest and cinnamon, and it is common to find them served with molasses as a dipping sauce. More new-school takes on the malasada innovate on old styles by filling the pastry with flavors ranging from sweet jams and fruit sauces to savory chocolate or cream spreads.

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WHERE TO SCORE THESE NEW ENGLAND SPECIALTIES

While many shops lay claim to the authentic origin story of the North Shore roast beef, many consider Kelly’s in Revere Beach to make one of the oldest and best sandwiches in the traditional style. Other top-rated eateries include Zeno’s in Ipswich, which hues close to the sandwich’s working-class roots, and Jamie’s in Peabody, which rethinks the humble “three-way” in a modern, upscale fashion. For those who want deli meat options beyond just roast beef, Destino’s Subs in Gloucester serves a range of choices that please even the pickiest eaters.

Good bar pizza is cooked in bars and cafés across the South Shore. Lynwood Café in Randolph has dished out beer and pizza since 1949 and is considered by locals to be the standard to beat. Poopsie’s in Pembroke specializes in an even thinner crust than normal bar pizza, and for those who prefer a more traditional pizza experience, Harbor House of Pizza in Scituate offers pizzas and subs in various styles.

For foodies who want a taste of both shores all in one place, Hot Box in Somerville’s Union Square serves North Shore roast beef and South Shore bar pizza—and nothing else! It’s an attempt to bring these two regional specialties to a location within walking distance of a new extension to the Boston subway’s Green Line.

If you want to try malasadas, keep your eyes peeled for the many Portuguese bakeries of eastern Rhode Island. Many locals swear by Ma’s Donuts in Middletown and Blue Tile Bakery in Warren. If you’re in Providence, Silver Star Bakery & Café is often recommended, as well as Morning Star Bakery in East Providence.