Boating from Rockport to Belfast, Maine

After boating in Maine for more than 20 years, my husband Greg and I often tell fellow yachters that the Mid-Coast is the beating heart of Maine. Miles of shoreline stretch to dramatic peninsulas and tuck up into pretty harbor towns like Rockland, Rockport, Camden and Belfast. The Pine Tree State has more coastline than California, and this section is special.

Most visitors to this vacationland, also known as the Land of Lobster, bypass this beautiful region on a mad dash for Mount Desert Island’s Bar Harbor and Acadia National Park. As boaters, we treasure the many quieter, quintessential seaside towns and islands to explore.

As you head “Downeast,” which is northeast of Portland, you are soon cruising by the interesting waterways of Muscongus Bay and Muscle Ridge, passing the promontory of Port Clyde and famous Marshall Point Lighthouse. Then you enter the legendary boating territory of Penobscot Bay.

As you round Owls Head Light, you know Rockland is ahead. Soon to starboard, the impressive Breakwater Lighthouse comes into view to greet you on a shimmery granite spit. Safe Harbor Rockland is perfectly situated at the head of the bay to dock your boat, a full-service marina, next to Archer’s on the Pier restaurant, and steps to town.

Rockland feels both irresistibly authentic and scenic. It’s a true working waterfront. Rockland was a quarry for massive granite stones shipped to create landmark buildings in New York City and Washington, DC — hence the name. And the town remains a hub for fishing and shipping, with an active cement factory.

On a beautiful stroll from the docks along Rockland’s waterfront Harbor Trail, we discovered this seaside town has blossomed into Maine’s art capital with plentiful galleries, as well as a lighthouse and art museums — most notably the famous Farnsworth Art Museum that features generations of Wyeth paintings. Just strolling Rockland’s old brick streets is a treat, with intriguing shops and dining spots.

After browsing boutiques, we found the happy humble diner, Rockland Café, on Main Street. Greg said his eggs benedict were among the best ever. My fish cakes were better than my father made (sorry Dad). Since 1992, this café rocks with an unchanged kitschy décor, salty waitresses and super deals on everything from egg dishes to seafood and of course, lobster.

Splurging with a night off the boat, we checked into the grand oceanfront Samoset Resort. It’s THE place to stay in Rockland and Rockport (it actually borders both towns). They offer a free shuttle to town in season. Our ocean view room overlooked Samoset’s seaside golf course and the lighthouse from the immense hotel’s third floor.

The property was recently renovated and is quite chic. We had choices of resort golf, tennis, pool and hot tub, or lawn games like disc golf. We opted to walk out the gleaming stacked granite boulders to the lighthouse; the path starts on the edge of Samoset’s expansive grounds.

Stepping across massive rock monoliths that tower two stories high above the water at high tide, we made it out the 4,000 feet length to the Rockland Breakwater Lighthouse. The assembly of these huge heavy Maine stones almost 150 years ago is mind-boggling, and views of Rockland Harbor and out to sea are impressive from the old Light Station.

That evening, our return to downtown Rockport coincided with a hometown Solstice Parade down Main Street. We ducked off the bustling sidewalks lined with local families into a pub. In Good Company is an upscale bistro where we grabbed a seat at the cozy bar. We sipped cocktails over local banter while savoring delicious “nibbles” served with warm crusty fresh-made bread.

Rockland is a boater’s treat — a festive hamlet with an annual North Atlantic Blues Fest, Lobster Fest, weekly art walks, farmers markets and more.

Boating farther, we cruised by Rockport’s tiny harbor, as we had visited this tight little bayfront before to see Andre the Seal’s statue when our kids were little. Our son and daughter had been enamored by the tale of this friendly flippered Maine mammal who became famous in 1962.

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Next Stop, Camden

In the heart of Maine’s midcoast was our next port, Camden, a delightful harbor surrounded by mountains. Aptly “Where the Mountains Meet the Sea” is its moniker, as Camden Hills and Mount Battie stretch down toward the busy waterfront where this 1769 New England village sits like a postcard scene.

Docking at the Public Town Landing is quite convenient as Camden is super foot-traffic friendly. Harbor Park and the beautiful brick public library grace the top of the bay. Just steps from the waterfront, attractive sidewalks lead to refined boutiques and local craft stores like The Smiling Cow and Once a Tree, plus art galleries and clothiers.

A hearty meal at Marriner’s Restaurant satisfied our craving for classic Downeast fare in a cheap and cheerful setting. The buttered grilled blueberry muffin is out-of-this-world, even better with an outdoor deck table. For dinner, the more bourgeoise menu was recommended at Peter Ott’s on the Water.

Cellardoor Winery was a fun afternoon food and wine adventure, with a hired ride from Sterling Elite to nearby Lincolnville. This neat winery is like Napa comes to Maine. Overlooking a lush vineyard, we sat in their sophisticated renovated barn and enjoyed sips and course-after-course of the chef ’s delicious food and wine pairing lunch from Cellardoor’s sparkling tasting kitchen.

More strolling along Camden’s beautiful waterfront was a perfect way to wile away the remains of the day. Or we could have hiked Camden Hills State Park lookout trails with spectacular views of Camden Harbor and Penobscot Bay below.

Boating northward from Camden along West Penobscot Bay, we passed Seven Hundred Acre Isle. Then, Islesboro also to starboard offered entertaining scenery. We were tempted to explore the many beautiful Penobscot Bay islands, but we headed to Belfast Harbor and the Passagassawakeag River.

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Onward to Belfast

Belfast isn’t on every boater’s treasure map, which makes it more of a gem. Docking via Snag-A-Slip along the calm waterfront at Front Street Shipyard, we immediately found the lovely mile-long Harbor Walk. This mariners’ village offers visitors a self-guided “Museum in the Streets” heritage-discovery tour.

Following signage throughout town, we learned the chronicle of Belfast’s evolution, beginning with Native American settlers who fished in canoes carved from native birch and pine trees. This explains the Passagassawakeag River name, which is indigenous for “a place for spearing sturgeon by torchlight.”

Along our Main Street stroll up a gentle hill by the harbor, we poked in Colburn’s, the oldest shoe store in America. Among other accolades, Belfast was a well-heeled shoemaking capital. The 250-year-old town is resplendent with well-preserved Italianate and Federal brick homes that now host art galleries and shops. Belfast is self-dubbed “Maine’s biggest little city” with a dozen cafés and a chockfull farmers market with vendors selling Maine food, crafts, jewelry and furniture.

We loved our lunch on Belfast’s waterfront at Nautilus with fantastic river views. Sitting at the bar, our fun bartender Mary gave us the local scoop. She recommended the rich and delicious lobster stew, followed by a decadent haddock Reuben that was cheesy and full of fresh flakey fish. Yum!

Needing to walk it off, we crossed the beautiful Armistice Bridge pedestrian boardwalk for more great views of the bayfront shipyards and pleasant summer cottages that dot the quiet shoreline.

Signs to the Belfast Rail Trail, also nicknamed the Passy Rail Trail, lured us on a 2.9-mile path. Belfast’s old Central Railroad tracks now serve as a nice public walkway along the river for pedestrians, pets and bikers. It is scenic, often shaded and peaceful. Belfast is also famed for its 157,000 daffodils on display in spring.

We’d heard the Penobscot Marine Museum was not to be missed. This is Maine’s oldest museum dedicated to preservation and education about Maine’s shipbuilding and fishing heritage, but we missed it, as it was closed on our visit. Next trip for sure. Back on our boat for sunset, we reflected on our magnificent Maine Mid-Coast exploration and plotted our next adventure into the Downeast region.